Around Geylang Serai - At Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre

[Cecil Lee]

At Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre

Geylang Serai During World War II And After

Like other parts of Singapore, Geylang Serai suffered severe damage during the Second World War when Japanese troops marched into the area from Pulau Tekong and Changi.

Malays from Geylang Sera were amongst the prisoners-of-war sent to build railways in Thailand and Burma. During the Japanese Occupation (1942-45), living conditions were poor.

The Japanese made tapioca the staple food due to a rice shortage.

Residents were allotted land to grow tapioca as a cash crop.

Some coconut and rubber plantations were converted into tapioca farms and the area became known as Kampong Ubi ("Tapioca Village" in Malay). Today, Jalan Ubi (part of the wider Geylang Serai area) serves as a reminder of this past.

Post-war Geylang Serai:
From Urban Slum To A Modern Estate

After the war, Geylang Serai saw the rise of new Malay and Chinese settlements. In the 1950s, some Chinese residents moved out and Geylang Serai slowly acquired a predominantly Malay flavour. The settlements became so dense that by 1957, Geylang Serai was home to an estimated 360,000 people who lived with poor drainage and sanitation. The area was prone to flooding particularly during the monsoon season. When river banks burst, village lanes turned into rivers and residents waded in knee-deep water and had to move about in makeshift rafts or small boats.

 

The Pioneering Spirit

As Singapore flourished in the mid-19th century, the island drew migrants from the Malay Peninsula and the Indonesian archipelago. Settlers from the Malay Peninsula were largely responsible for clearing the land for pepper and gambier plantations, while many Javanese and Boyanese immigrants worked in rubber plantations. 

During this period, three wealthy Yemeni-Arab families - the Alsagoffs, Alkaffs and the Aljunieds - acquired land in Geylang. The Alsagoffs owned a large plot which they named the "Perseverance Estate". Lemongrass and citronella were cultivated here by Chinese and Malay farmers. The crop was processed into soaps and scents at the Citronella Press Factory and exported to Europe and North America. In the 189os, when the citronella market declined, the factory was closed and its site was converted into an eastern terminal for Singapore's first tramline. The farmers in the estate turned to growing coconuts, rubber, vegetables and rearing poultry for a living.

 

Jalan Eunos Malay Settlement

Another important settlement in the area was Kampong Melayu (Malay Village), which was established in 1929 by the Singapore Malay Union to provide affordable housing land for poor Malays. In 1927, Encik Muhammad Eunos Abdullah, Chairman of Kesatuan Melayu Singapura (the Singapore Malay Union) had appealed to the Colonial Government and successfully bought a piece of land for the Malay community.

Known as the Jalan Eunos Malay Settlement or Kampong Melayu, the area was extended to Kaki Bukit in 196o. Other Malay villages were also set up along similar lines in West Coast, Sembawang and Ayer Gemuruh (in Changi). However, these settlements later made way for housing and other urban development projects.

 

Scented Grasses: Lemongrass and Citronella
 

There are two species of plants in the grass family commonly known as Serai. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) or Serai has been used for centuries to impart a pleasant citrusy flavour to food. Known as Serai Wangi, citronella (Cymbopogon winterianus) is prized for its oil which has anti-rheumatic and mosquito-repelling properties. Lemongrass has thin, 50 cm-long leaves, while citronella has broader leaves which can reach up to one metre in length.

 

The Alsagoffs

In 1848, Syed Abdul Rahman Alsagoff arrived in Singapore with his son and set up Alsagoff & Company.
The Alsagoffs were prominent traders and philanthropists who donated generously to endowments for * Islamic schools and charities. Part of the present Eunos Road and Geylang Serai Road was formerly named Jalan Alsagoff in 1932 after the Alsagoff family.

Engku Aman Road, which runs parallel to Geylang Serai Road, is named after Abdulrahman bin Taha Alsagoff (1880-1955), a philanthropist and landowner. He held the title "Engku" as he was of Bugis royal descent. He is also well known for his contributions to the Alsagoff Arab School and the reconstruction of the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque in Kampong Glam. The mosque was founded by his great-grandmother, a Malaccan merchant who was also the Sultana of Gowa in Sulawesi.

 

Life in Geylang Serai
Community and Religion

 

Shopping and eating are not the only activities that Geylang Sera is famous for. Located on the corner where Jalan Turi meets Changi Road, the Taj Cinema (later renamed the Singapura Theatre) was once a magnet for fans of Malay movies as well as Hindustani films with Malay subtitles. However, due to competition from new cinemas in the city, the crowds started dwindling and by the 198s, the cinema catered mainly to foreign construction workers. The cinema's premises are now occupied by retail outlets and a food centre.

Built in 1982 and upgraded in 1995 with modern facilities, the Kampong Ubi Community Centre is located at the junction of Jalan Ubi and Sims Avenue. The Community Centre works to promote social cohesion amongst the residents with a wide range of community and cultural programmes.

A Home For The Arts

The area around Geylang Sera has also left its mark on Singapore's arts scene. During the 19305, acclaimed Chinese artist, Xu Beihong (1895-1953) resided in a house at Lorong 35 Geylang, where he produced masterpieces such as Put Down Your Whip (1939). Also based in the area was local batik master, Sarkasi Said, who has played a major role in turning batik painting into a world class art form. Born in 1938, Sarkasi Said has exhibited across Asia, Europe and the US, and was honoured with the Pingat APAD for his contributions to the arts.

The Tan Swie Hian Museum, located at the junction of Lorong 31 Geylang and Sims Avenue, features the work of Tan Swie Hian, one of Singapore's most important visual artists and the winner of the Cultural Medallion in 1987. Other cultural institutions in the area include the Art Retreat at Ubi Crescent and the Kong Hiap Memorial Museum at Geylang East Avenue I.

Hari Raya Light Up!

Every year, during the Muslim month of Ramadan, the streets around Geylang Serai come alive with colourful lights and festive décor to welcome Hari Raga Aidilfitri. Also known as Hari Raya Puasa, this festival marks the end of a month of daily fasting and meditation. The Hari Raya light up began in 1984, when the community first erected arches over Geylang Serai Road that represented minarets and hung mock ketupats (rice cakes) and bunga manggar (bridal flowers) from street lamps.
The Hari Raya light up has since become a much-anticipated annual event that draws many Singaporeans and tourists to Geylang Sera during Ramadan. The festive mood is enhanced by a giant street bazaar set up around the market with hundreds of stalls serving up Malay delicacies, souvenirs, garments, home furnishings, furniture, etc. Over the years, this Hari Baya Bazaar grew in size and popularity, spreading out from the car park of the Geylang Serai flats all the way to the area near Tanjong Katong Complex.

 

 

Looking Forward To a New Chapter

As part of the government's estate renewal programmes'for older estates, Geylang Serai was granted a new round of rejuvenation in February 2003 under the HDB's Selective En bloc Redevelopment Scheme (SERS) and Hawker Centres Upgrading Programme (HUP). The redevelopment pro-gramme entailed the building of a two-storey market to replace the earlier facility and the replacement of the old flats by new housing blocks with a multi-storey carpark topped by a roof garden - named Sri Geylang Serai.
While some regular visitors may feel a sense of loss for the old market that had occupied a special place in the hearts of many Singaporeans, many residents and visitors also saw the need to give Geylang Serai a new lease of life to improve its appeal, charm and hygiene standard. Whatever the changes, there is no doubt that Geylang Serai will maintain its unique character, spirit of mutual tolerance and warm sense of welcome.

[Cecil Lee]

Have ever seen curry plant flowers? Background = curry leaves